2. Vaishnava clothing for women
Traditional Vaishnava clothing for women is not merely a matter of ethnic fashion; it is a comprehensive spiritual discipline designed to foster modesty, cleanliness, and a constant awareness of one’s identity as a servant of God. Known for its elegance and simplicity, this attire serves as a “shield against indulgence in sense gratification” and is rooted in the understanding that the body is a temple of Lord Vishnu.
The Philosophy of Modesty and Protection
The core principle governing women’s Vaishnava dress is an emphasis on modesty over sexual allurement. In this tradition, clothing is intended to reflect a person’s spiritual values and internal state rather than following the “daily changes of fashion”. The attire identifies the wearer as a devotee of Krishna, which helps cultivate humility and freedom from vanity.
One of the most distinctive developments in modern Vaishnava dress, particularly within ISKCON, is the “Mayapur” or “Lehenga style” saree. The origin of this style is rooted in a specific spiritual context: devotees in Mayapur discussed the story of Draupadi from the Mahabharata. When an attempt was made to disrobe Draupadi in the assembly, she was miraculously protected by Lord Krishna, who made her single-layered saree infinite. Devotees reasoned that while a single layer was Draupadi’s state in a moment of vulnerability, a devotee in normal circumstances should wear multiple layers of cloth for maximum protection and modesty.
The Core Garments: The Saree and Salwar Kameez
The saree is the quintessential garment for women in the Vaishnava tradition and is considered the female counterpart to the male dhoti.
- Design and Material: A saree is a single piece of unstitched cloth. This is significant because, in Vedic culture, unstitched clothing is often considered “less permeable to pollution” and thus more suitable for religious rituals. They come in various regional styles and are made from cotton, silk, or nylon.
- The ISKCON/Lehenga Style: This specific style utilizes a 10-meter petticoat made of thick, non-transparent cotton fabric. This heavy foundation ensures that the shape of the body is not revealed, prioritizing a “modest way of wearing”.
- Technical Requirements: To achieve the voluminous, pleated look of this style, a saree should ideally be at least 6 meters long. If a saree is too short, devotees may even go as far as attaching similar-looking fabric to the end to ensure there is enough length for the necessary pleats.
- Draping Technique: The saree is tied around the navel. Tying it above the navel is considered unhealthy as it can restrict breathing and cause discomfort, while tying it below the navel is discouraged because it can leave the stomach too exposed, which is not appreciated in a modest setting.
- Salwar Kameez: Especially common among Punjabi Hindu and Sikh women, the salwar kameez is also accepted as traditional attire. It consists of a tunic (kameez) worn over loose-fitting trousers (salwar) and is often paired with a chunni (shawl) to cover the head and shoulders.
Sacred Markings and Adornments
Traditional dress is considered incomplete without the physical markers of a Vaishnava: tilaka and neck-beads.
- Tilaka: Devotees decorate their bodies with markings made of sacred clay from holy rivers. The U-shaped marking on the forehead represents the heel of Lord Vishnu, while the oval marking on the nose represents the Tulasi leaf. Applying tilaka to twelve parts of the body transforms the form into a “temple of Lord Vishnu” where Lakshmi and Narayana are said to reside.
- Kanthi-mala (Neck-beads): Devotees wear strands of beads made from Tulasi wood around their necks. These beads signify surrender to the Lord. Srila Prabhupada famously compared these beads to a “dog collar,” identifying the wearer as a “pet dog of God” who is protected by the Supreme Master from bad dreams, accidents, and even the messengers of death (Yamadutas). Because of their spiritual potency, these beads are typically never taken off.
Spiritual Disciplines and Cleanliness
For a Vaishnava, external cleanliness is a reflection of internal purity; thus, there are strict rules for maintaining clothing:
- Contamination: A devotee must not wear cloth that is dirty or unclean. Clothing is considered contaminated if it is worn while sleeping, passing urine or stool, or if it touches anything impure like wine, meat, blood, or a dead body. Contact with a woman in her menstrual period also necessitates a change of cloth.
- Laundry Purity: Sacred items, such as the saree or bead-bags, should not be washed in a “toilet-cum-bathroom” or along with contaminated articles like socks or undergarments.
- Worship Standards: During deity worship (puja), devotees must not wear torn, soiled, or damp cloth. Silk is highly valued for puja because it can be worn many times before washing, provided it has not touched anything impure.
The Austerity of Traditional Dress
While traditional Vaishnava dress is described as “blissful” and “neat,” it is also recognized as a form of spiritual austerity. A full Mayapur-style saree and its 10-meter petticoat can weigh approximately two kilograms more than standard clothing. Despite this weight, devotees find it practical; the wide, voluminous skirt allows for a full range of movement and is particularly comfortable when sitting in meditative postures like padmasana (lotus position) during temple programs.
Contextual and Cultural Standards
The importance of this dress is highlighted in major spiritual centers. For example, the ISKCON temple in Vrindavan recently implemented a mandatory dress code, requiring all devotees to wear modest and traditional attire while strictly prohibiting “short and indecent clothing” to preserve the sanctity and eternal tradition of the temple.
However, the tradition also allows for preaching flexibility. Srila Prabhupada taught that the goal of the movement is to attract people to Krishna consciousness, and if wearing “regular Western dress” (karmé clothes) facilitates the distribution of books or public outreach in foreign countries, there is no objection. Nevertheless, devotees are encouraged to return to their traditional clothes and apply tilaka as soon as they return to the ashram, as regularly wearing “karmé” clothes around the opposite sex is thought to create an “unchaste atmosphere”.
In summary, Vaishnava clothing for women is a holistic system of sacred symbols. From the multi-layered saree that acts as a shield for modesty to the Tulasi beads that signify surrender, every element of the attire is intended to remind the practitioner and the public of the soul’s divine connection to Krishna. It presents the devotee not as a materialist, but as a radiant and blissful representative of a vibrant spiritual culture.